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November 14th, 2002, 08:37 PM
#1
Inactive Member
I recently shot about 5 rolls of Ektachrome without an 85B filter. So it's going to all come out blue.
Has anyone ever color-corrected tungsten-balanced film that was shot in daylight without proper filtering?
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November 14th, 2002, 09:49 PM
#2
tfunch24
Guest
I assume you shot without any kind of filter at all. If you used the built-in 85A daylight filter on your camera, you should have no problem. The difference between the 85B and 85A filters is so tiny that it's not noticeable.
Unfortunately, I've never color-corrected tungsten-balanced film, so I can't help you there.
Good luck.
Tom
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November 18th, 2002, 01:56 PM
#3
eddie
Guest
hello
Ive done this using Adobe Premier and the colour balance filter. You have to reduce the BLUE and tweak the RED and GREEN until you get something that looks OK over the whole clip.
the results were OK:
http://homes.ukoln.ac.uk/~lisey/images/guards.gif
Sorry I dont have before and after pictures - this is after.
Still a little blue though - their shirts were black. It depends on what colours you have in the scene, how well you can remove the blue.
I found that the more you reduce the blue, the harder it was to get flesh tones in this particular clip.
But it *is* possible to do.
Good Luck
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ November 18, 2002 10:04 AM: Message edited by: eddie ]</font>
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November 18th, 2002, 05:08 PM
#4
Inactive Member
I'm wondering because I haven't processed these 5 rolls of Ekta yet. It's not valuable footage - mostly me and a pal goofig around Hollywood Blvd.
Re: Adobe Premier - What about converting it to black-and-white? Would it be best to color correct before going to grey?
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November 18th, 2002, 08:33 PM
#5
Inactive Member
I think a better question to pose might be this one...
do you really deserve your Beaulieu after this little mess-up? I'd be inclined to say "no" as this is the sort of behavior that continually gives S8 a bad name.
I'll be picking up your ZMII tomorrow, Cal...you can use my Bolex until you learn how to shoot Super-8 the correct way.
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November 19th, 2002, 08:37 AM
#6
eddie
Guest
Re: Adobe Premier - What about converting it to black-and-white? Would it be best to color correct before going to grey?
Try it both ways, and see which you prefer.
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November 19th, 2002, 03:17 PM
#7
Inactive Member
Color correction is easy--If you have Chip Charts and Grey cards. They help out a lot but you can still play around with things and adjust them to your eye.
As for the filtering--I think that the differance between an 85A and 85B is huge. I can see the differance straight away. Use a "B" when shooting the Ektachrome--It will save you the hassles in the future.
Good Luck
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November 19th, 2002, 08:23 PM
#8
tfunch24
Guest
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nigel:
As for the filtering--I think that the differance between an 85A and 85B is huge. I can see the differance straight away. Use a "B" when shooting the Ektachrome--It will save you the hassles in the future.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
Really? You're probably right; you know more about the subject than I do, you being a pro DP. Anyway, here's a quote from an article that claims that the difference between the 85A and 85B filters are not perceptible:
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
VNF 7240 is a "professional" film stock, and while that lofty title may sound impressive, it doesn't imply that it is better, or will yield better results than an "amateur" stock. Kodachrome and the old Ektachrome 160 are so-called "amateur" stocks, and considered "Type A" films. The "professional" Ektachrome 7240 is a "Type B" film. Type B films have different color balances and may require more attention than Type A films. Kodak lists the correct filter to use for outdoor photography as an 85B, and not the 85A typically built into most Super-8 cameras. The two filters are very close in color correction, however, and the built-in 85A filter can be used satisfactorily. In several test results I alternatively spliced together exact scenes shot with both the 85A and the 85B filter and could tell no perceptible difference.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
The article from which that quote is taken can be found here: http://www.omniprints.com/super8/ektachrome.html (It's about Ektachrome 7240).
Thoughts?
Tom
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November 20th, 2002, 12:07 AM
#9
Inactive Member
I sure hope that the 85A filter doesn't affect the Ektachrome film TOO much because I just bought 3 rolls of it for an evening outdoor timelapse.
Is that film meant for any certain camera running speed? I can only do 18fps on my pees o'chrapp [img]tongue.gif[/img]
~M
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November 20th, 2002, 10:55 PM
#10
Inactive Member
It happened to me one day with Kodachrome and from what I saw, this was the typical filter error that could easily be corrected in post. It happened to me so many times in video that I know those blue shots well! Final Cut Pro's Color Corrector would have done this in a second.But what struck me is that the shot - though blueish - looked sharper than shots made with the wratten filter on. So I might do a couple of tests and see if I'm not better off shooting outdoors without the filter and color correct the shots later on. But I might be wrong [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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